"Visiting Domaine Duplessis is always enjoyable even before entering the winery. Overlooking the somnolent River Serein that cuts through the town of Chablis, Duplessisseems to be shrouded in calmness and tranquility. (For background information, please refer to my report in Issue 220.) Lilian Duplessis was on hand to guide me through his 2014s, having taken the reins from his father Gérard. Along with Thomas Pico, Duplessis is one of the most well-known, biodynamic-practicing wineries, which must be tough in such a challenging growing season as 2016. But like Pico, this winemaker is not for turning. “We started picking on September 20,” he told me. “The wines were austere and closed at first, but are beginning to open up. They were bottled a little later giving around 18 months in maturation. I like a long élevage and it is important to give the wines two winters in barrel, the second to help stabilise the wine.” Duplessis has plenty of thoroughly enjoyable 2014s to offer: a little austere in style, what you might call “classic” Chablis that is very discrete with its use of oak. Duplessis continues to pursue organic vineyard management having gained ECOCERT certification back in 2010. During our exchange, we discussed various improvements in wines. He cited the increased density of vine plantings as one contributory factor – at this address, 8,000 per hectare” - Neil Martin